Ford Mustang Will Not Start how to find out if it’s Electrical or starter failure, battery, alternator that makes your car won’t Orlando Mobile Mechanic that will come to you at your job, home or business location as well as pre-purchase used vehicle buying evaluation inspection near me Kissimmee and Sanford Florida by calling us now at 407-901-2069
Okay, so one of the very most common reasons a car will not start is the battery. So there’s a few things you want to know about the battery. First of all, where do we locate it? Sometimes it’s in the front engine bay here. Sometimes they have it hidden up by the front cowling. Other times, it’s in the trunk of the car, depending on the car. On some cars like the Ferraris, some of them have it inside the kick where your feet go on the passenger side, so it can range. So first you want to locate your battery and check its condition. I have this car plugged into a battery tender, which I made a video on, and I’ll put that link in the description. So I know the battery is fully charged, but that’s the first thing you’ll want to look at.
Concerning the battery as well, you want to make sure that the cable ends are tight. My neighbor’s car wasn’t starting the other day, and I went over and it was simply just because this was loose, and so it’ll be very apparent when there’s no lights coming on in the car, and we’ll discuss that in a minute.
You can see this one has some corrosion on it, and we’ve cleaned it up a little bit. That can be definitely a part of it, and I have even had the battery connected. Lights come on, everything seems to be working, but it’s still not great.
So diagnosing the battery, one of the easiest ways is just looking inside the car …
And if the door lock doesn’t work, then that could be your first clue. What you’ll want to do is look inside and see your dome light works, and you can also turn the headlights on on the car, that kind of thing. So you can also turn the ignition key, and if you’re getting lights and sounds here, then the battery may be working, it also might not be strong enough for the car to start. So just because you do see lights in here or things like that, that doesn’t necessarily mean the battery’s okay. So the best way to probably test that would be to put some jumper cables up from another car. I have a video on that, and I’ll also put in the description. That way you know you’re getting all the power the car should have.
So we’re going to go ahead and go to start it. Remember, if your foot is pushing the gas pedal to the floor, the car will not start. It’s designed that way to help with a flooding condition if you have too much fuel. So make sure you’re not pumping or have your foot completely against the gas pedal. If it’ll crank.
Okay. That’s telling you a few things.
You know the engine isn’t seized up, because the engine is turning. You know the starter’s good, because you can hear it cranking. We also know that the battery is good, because it’s powering the starter and everything. So from here, that’s where you’re probably going to look more into the fuel system.
Now, some of these cars even have a switch on the clutch pedal, and if it’s not depressed, it will not start. It’ll think that the car doesn’t have the clutch engaged. Now if that happens, however, the car shouldn’t crank at all. In fact, I’ll show you what will happen … Without touching the clutch at all. Making sure the car’s in neutral, too. It just won’t even do anything. Ready?
Okay. See the difference? When the clutch pushed in … It’ll actually allow it to crank. So you’ll want to make sure that switch isn’t and bad. If so, you might have to change it out.
Okay, so after you’ve cranked the car a few times, if you followed the fuel rail through here, usually there’s a little cap here for a test port. So if you take that cap off, it’s kind of like a valve stem on a bike. What you want to do is just depress it, that pin right there in the middle, and see if any fuel sprays out. If not, that can tell you that you don’t have any fuel pressure.
Now even better than this would be if you rent the actual tester with a gauge on it from a part store, but if not, we’re just going to push this down and see that there’s no fuel coming out.
So now just to show you what I’m talking about, on my other car here that I know is good, I’m going to go ahead and push down on its cap here. See that fuel that came out? So we know we have fuel pressure on that rail.
I’m thinking it’s the pump, or it could be the fuel rail pressure sensor, but I think we’d still get pressure here, at least at the rail. So I’m going to go more towards the pump at this point.
Okay. So from here, what I want you to pay attention to is when I turn the key, listen to how pronounced the fuel pump is inside the tank. Sometimes you can’t hear it from inside the car with the car dinging or anything like that, but listen to this.
So now we’re going to go ahead and do it on this car, and pay attention [inaudible 00:05:28]. Listen for that fuel pump sound like the other car had.
Okay. Now something else that you’ll want to check on, this year, kind of the ’94 through 2004 Mustangs, is back here in the trunk, you have what’s called the inertia switch. So right here, if you were to get in an accident and the car feels like it’s been hit, that red button’s going to pop up. So you want to push this down and make sure the button is down, and also make sure that it is plugged in. That can cut fuel pressure.
Also, back in here … You will find the fuel pump driver module, or the FPDM. Okay, so this is another part of the brains to the fuel pump system. You want to make sure that it’s plugged in. It’s kind of dusty. Don’t think that’s going to be causing the car not to start, but this is another area that you want to check. The fuel pump driver module.
Okay, now over here on the passenger side, I conveniently have the fender lining out, as I’ve been doing some other things with the car, but you will find the constant control relay module, the CCRM, and this computer here helps the car regulate as it’s idling. There’s air conditioning relays in there, there’s a few things, and it’s not very common, but it can be a problem when the car, at least idling, possibly even starting, that’s another module that you’re going to want to check.
Okay, there’s also some other sensors under here that are going to help with the car starting, and I’ve had good luck in the past with unplugging them, and sometimes that’s allowed the car to start, and then I know that that’s what’s causing the problem. So sometimes the car will start even without them attached. Sometimes it’ll allow it to start. So if you want to come through to your master meter here, push down, unplug it.
This is a air temperature sensor. Shouldn’t have anything to do with it. The throttle position sensor, however, may have a lot to do with it, because it may not register where the throttle is, and if you push the throttle all the way to the floor, it will not allow the car to start. So therefore, if this is bad and giving a bad signal, that could be part of it.
The idle air control valve here, it’s like a little throttle body, it opens and closes to help regulate the cars as it’s idling with airflow, but that shouldn’t have anything to do with starting the car. Those are things to check. Also, any vacuum lines. Say this hose right here, for example. If this were popped off and just hanging out here, then that could be a reason that it would have trouble starting, or once it starts, have trouble staying running.
So there’s a lot of little things to check, including the fuel rail pressure sensor, the FRPS right here. So if you follow your fuel rail, you’ll see there’s a sensor that’s part of that rail, and these commonly go bad, so that’s something … Once again, you might try unplugging it and swapping on a different one. It’s a common thing to keep the car from getting the fuel pressure that it needs to start.
Okay, so for this next step, this is not something I’m personally recommending. Okay. This is an attempt at your own risk, because there’s some danger involved here, but if you’re convinced that the car otherwise should be running, you can try putting some starter fluid directly into the intake. So in this case, I am listening and I hear that the pump is not turning on. I’m pretty sure that it’s that. I don’t think it’s a fuel rail pressure sensor or anything like that.
So what I’ve done is I’ve removed the intake here, and so now as my friend is going to attempt to start the car, you’ll see the throttle body open, and I’ll lightly spray some of this in. You do not want this to flood in here or puddle or anything like that. So I’m going to go ahead and give it a shot here.
Now it will only run as long as it has fluid. So it’ll eventually stop once it runs out of that fluid. So we’re going to go ahead and put a new fuel pump in this car, and I do have a video already on that that I’ll put in the description.
Now, funny enough, you heard for yourself, we could not hear the fuel pump turning on on this car, but after I shut the starter fluid in and got it running … It’s running.
So the car had been sitting for awhile. I don’t know if the fuel pump still is just very weak or going out or whatnot, so I am able to get it to run. How long it will run, I’m not sure. Sometimes that might be enough just to get it going again. So I’ll keep you guys updated on https://mobilemechanicautorepairinorlando.com/we-buy-houses/.
Now there is another sensor that you’ll want to check, and it’s the crankshaft position sensor. The reason why is because that’s also combined in with the timing system on the car. So if that sensor goes bad, it won’t allow the car to start, and I have a full video on replacing that that I’ll also put in the description. It’s under the car, a ways, it’s down in here. Kind of by the AC compressor. So I’ll put a link in so you can see what that one’s all about too, but that’s definitely one, the crankshaft position sensor, that can keep the car from starting.
Okay, on this next one you might laugh, but make sure the car has fuel. That’s even happened to me with this car, our Infiniti, really nice car, very reliable. However, it’s had some issues with the gas gauge not reading, and what happened to me once is I was at the pump before a long road trip, and I put the pump on to the automatic where it was filling itself, and I went to clean the windshield.
I came back and I heard it click when it was filled up, and I didn’t pay attention to how much fuel it takes and how much it had taken that day. So we’re driving down the freeway, and all of a sudden it started cutting out, and sure enough, it was just because it had run out of fuel.
The pump had prematurely shut off, and I didn’t calculate the mileage or anything to see how many gallons it should’ve taken. We were in a hurry. Anyway, for some reasons, that happens. It’s happened to my family quite often, where you just straight out run out of fuel, and if you have a faulty fuel gauge like this car had at the time, then it can happen. So just make sure that you have fuel.
Anyway, thanks for watching. I hope that this video is useful to you, and sure enough, there’s other things you can check as well that might come up that would keep the car from starting. A lot of different sensors, the throttle position sensor, crankshaft position sensor. There’s a lot of things that can keep a car from starting, so hopefully this video has pointed out a few that you can try and diagnose on your own.
If you have any other questions, go ahead and put it in the comments. If you’ve found other things that have kept your car from starting, go ahead and throw those in the comments to help out the people who were reading through. They might be also looking for some more ideas. So anyway, thanks for watching. Feel free to subscribe to the channel, and check out all the other videos. Thanks again.
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